This is a great video for those who have the tools and want to do something yourself to your car. Video describes How to replace the front rotors and brake pads on SAAB 9-3 (9-5 93 95), and The procedures are similar for SAAB 9-5, step-by-step:
For over 15 years, Goran Aničić has been passionately focused on Saab automobiles and everything related to them. His initial encounter with Saab cars took place back in 2003 when the first Saab 9-3 and sedan version were introduced. At that moment, he was captivated by the car's Scandinavian design logic and top-notch engineering, and everything that followed stemmed from that first encounter. Later on, through his work at the editorial team of the Serbian automotive magazines "Autostart" and later "AutoBild," he had the opportunity to engage more closely with Saab vehicles. In 2008, he tested the latest Saab cars of that time, such as the Saab 9-3 TTiD Aero and Saab 9-3 Turbo X. In 2010, as the sole blogger from the region, he participated in the Saab 9-5ng presentation in Trollhättan, Sweden. Alongside journalists from around the world, he got a firsthand experience of the pinnacle of technological offerings from Saab at that time. Currently, Goran owns two Saabs: a 2008 Saab 9-3 Vector Sportcombi with a manual transmission, and a Saab 9-3 Aero Griffin Sport Sedan from the last generation, which rolled off the production line in Trollhättan in December 2011.
1 Comment
This guy does not look up the torque values of the caliper carrier bolts and caliper slide pins, and he does not use a torque wrench to tighten them correctly.
He just does the nuts as tight as he can then turns them a further quarter turn !!
THIS IS WRONG AND POTENTIALLY VERY DANGEROUS because it could cause the bolts to fail, and loss of braking. Look up the proper torque values and use a torque wrench to ensure the bolts are tightened correctly according to manufacturer’s specifications.
Secondly, it is much easier to clean the discs/rotors BEFORE putting them on the hubs, lol !! Then screw in the allen screw to hold the new disc/rotor steady on the hub to stop it slopping around and getting scratched while you reattach the calliper carrier.
Lastly, it is good practice to tighten wheel bolts going from one to the next one opposite, not the one immediately adjacent.
This guy does not look up the torque values of the caliper carrier bolts and caliper slide pins, and he does not use a torque wrench to tighten them correctly.
He just does the nuts as tight as he can then turns them a further quarter turn !!
THIS IS WRONG AND POTENTIALLY VERY DANGEROUS because it could cause the bolts to fail, and loss of braking. Look up the proper torque values and use a torque wrench to ensure the bolts are tightened correctly according to manufacturer’s specifications.
Secondly, it is much easier to clean the discs/rotors BEFORE putting them on the hubs, lol !! Then screw in the allen screw to hold the new disc/rotor steady on the hub to stop it slopping around and getting scratched while you reattach the calliper carrier.
Lastly, it is good practice to tighten wheel bolts going from one to the next one opposite, not the one immediately adjacent.